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IN SEASON
Think of fiddlehead ferns, those tightly coiled, emerald-green symbols of spring, as ferns interrupted. Left unforaged, they'd mature into tall, feathery fronds. Gathered young by farmers like Franca Tantillo, who sells them at her Berried Treasures Greenmarket stand, they boast a crunchy texture and vegetal flavor prized by seasonally minded chefs. At the Spotted Pig, April Bloomfield sautées them with ramps and garlic for a particularly pungent, pancetta-enhanced bruschetta topping. R.R.
APRIL BLOOMFIELD'S FIDDLEHEAD-FERN BRUSCHETTA
10 ounces ramps
10 ounces fiddlehead ferns
4 tablespoons butter
Pinch Maldon sea salt
Pinch crushed chili pepper
2 cloves garlic (1 chopped, 1 halved)
Half a lemon
4 slices Italian bread (Bloomfield recommends filone from Sullivan St. Bakery)
4 teaspoons olive...