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He was tipped for three Michelin stars at Gidleigh Park this year, but the final accolade wasn't forthcoming. However, Michael Caines denies being disappointed - his main motivation is building a business rather than creating the perfect soufflé, he insists. But do we believe him, and how does it feel to be heading up an ever-increasing number of kitchens? Tom Vaughan reports from Caines's latest restaurant, at the Bath Priory hotel
The whispers started last October, produce of the scatter-gun rumour mill that precedes each year's Michelin results. By January they hit a crescendo. "Is it true he's got three stars?" assorted chefs would enquire, with an overblown faith in journalistic fact digging. "What rumours have you heard?" asked a fidgety Caines two weeks into the new year, restless with thoughts of 2009's guide printed and bundled up in some suburban storeroom and his restaurant at Gidleigh Park a hot tip to join the three-star brigade on publication.
Sadly, though - but not too sadly, Caines will stress - 2009 will not be remembered as the year Gidleigh Park entered the true elite. When the Michelin results leaked out five days early Caines was seen to be stuck at two stars and it was Alain Ducasse's restaurant at the Dorchester that edged nearer to the Holy Grail of three.
Attentive industry spectators will note, however, that Caines has of this week added a third star to his portfolio. Monday (16 March) saw the official reopening of the restaurant at the Bath Priory hotel, with one Michael Caines MBE as executive head chef. The hotel, owned by Andrew and Christina Brownsword, proprietors of Gidleigh Park, was formerly the vehicle for Chris Horridge's Michelin-starred healthy cuisine, but following his departure in January, Brownsword turned to Caines to relaunch the restaurant, retaining the Michelin star Horridge secured for the site in January. For Caines's group it's another notch in what is fast becoming, after Gordon Ramsay Holdings, the biggest high-end restaurant collection overseen by a British Michelin-starred chef.
As well as Gidleigh Park and Bath Priory, Caines has signature restaurants at a further four properties in the Abode group, the hotel company he opened with Andrew Brownsword in 2003, with plans from the pair to add...