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Tom Aikens At Tom Aikens
43 Elystan Street, SW3 (Tel: 020-7584 2003) Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, 7pm-11pm
* What a crop this week! Three chefs with stars in their eyes. Tom Aikens first went meteoric at Pied a Terre (below). He has now resurfaced at the former Marlborough Arms. A first course of foie gras and artichoke terrine with truffled celeriac remoulade is a dish of technical brilliance, only slightly undermined by injudicious use of truffle oil. Poached chicken breast and braised leg with truffled macaroni artichoke sauce is another dazzling combo, virgin white breast poached to the texture of sherbet, but again in thrall to the truffle oil. Service, while correct, was a little stiff, but it will mellow. High point Good disabled access Low point Over-enthusiastic use of truffle oil Capacity 60 Price per head Three course lunch pounds 24.50;...