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Previously restricted to members only, the Bluebird Club restaurant has been renamed, redecorated and relaunched in collaboration with Tom Conran. The dining rooms retain their art deco style, and the softly lit space showcases works by Paul Slater, best known for his mural at Conran's west London eatery, The Cow. The culinary theme is British food with British ingredients and new chef Mark Broadbent meets this remit with considerable imagination. A starter of warm potato drop scones is very good: light, fluffy and scented with crustacea oil, these prove a fine vehicle for rich Cornish crab meat flaked over them. Dandelion salad with wet walnuts and Shropshire blue is an eccentric but pleasing assembly. For mains, rump of salt marsh lamb is another winner, moist and deeply flavoured. Classic English puds include a nicely sharp lemon curd ice cream teamed with all-but perfect shortbread.