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Not enough women are getting acknowledgement, nor the diverse range of cuisines on offer...
The Michelin star system has had quite the story arc. Invented by the tyre company to give drivers somewhere decent to stop off for lunch while out motoring, it had decades of untouchable status, with anonymous assessors handing out (or taking away) stars. The criteria were also secret but classic French cuisine, starched white tablecloths and an expansive, expensive wine list were key. It became a badge of honour for some to dine out in every Michelin-starred establishment in a country.
Then, a few years ago, the first rumblings of dissent started. Why, particularly in Britain where the restaurant scene is so progressive and exciting, were certain places-and chefs-always overlooked? Who needs crisp linen or an SW1 address when some of the most award-worthy food is outside the capital, or in its less posh postcodes-and not laden with truffles, caviar and velouté?
Recently, Andrew Wong’s stellar Chinese restaurant A Wong has been awarded a second star, while Brat, an...