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Julian Brind looks every inch the old-school gentleman wine merchant. He is trim, upright of posture, and always dressed (when I see him, anyway) in a pinstripe suit. His manner is polished, courteous and solicitous. You can picture him in some club, explaining to a banker why he should buy at least three cases of all the First Growth clarets en primeur. There's only one problem with this picture: Brind works for Waitrose, and has done for 31 years. In his time there he has witnessed - and played a role in effecting - the most dramatic changes that have taken place in the UK wine trade.
When I read that Brind was planning to retire, I figured it was a good excuse to meet up and ask him a question or two. It turns out his path to wine began with a stint at Portland Cement after he'd left school and been told by his father to get a...