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Taster's Choice
Eucalyptus, 7 Rehov Horkanos, Jerusalem. Tel. 02-244331. Open Sunday through Thursday, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Saturday night 8:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. (No kashrut certificate. )
Eucalyptus, an underground Jerusalem institution, has long been a place of pilgrimage for visiting food writers and other enthusiasts of the gastronomic experience.
Located in a ramshackle building in the Talpiot industrial zone, hidden under a spreading tree which gave the establishment its name, its fame spread slowly by word of mouth. When the restaurant closed last year, there was mourning in the culinary community.
Recently, Eucalyptus has reappeared in the center of town. The menu is just as imaginative as ever. The proprietor, who in the past refused to obtain a kashrut certificate despite his steady stream of observant clients, has...